G'day! If you've chosen a Camplux water heater for camping, caravanning, or a rural/off-grid setup, you've already made a smart move for dependable hot water without the drama. The next smart move? Keeping maintenance costs down so your heater runs like a beauty for years. This guide walks you through practical, DIY-friendly steps to save on repairs, gas, and replacement parts—written with Aussie conditions in mind and peppered with plain-English explanations so nothing feels too "techy".
Why Maintenance = Money Saved
Preventive care is like getting your ute serviced before a long trip—it costs a little now but stops the big, ugly bills later. Clean heat exchange surfaces and stable gas pressure mean your Camplux burns fuel efficiently, so you spend less on LPG and water while getting faster, steadier hot showers. Scale (mineral buildup) and blocked filters force the unit to work harder, the same way a blocked snorkel makes it tough to breathe. Tidy it up and your heater relaxes—and so does your wallet.
In short: a clean, well-set-up heater uses less gas, wastes less water, and avoids breakdowns.
Know Your Unit: AY132 vs BV158 vs F10
Camplux offers a few popular outdoor models for Australia:
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AY132 (6L portable): Compact and popular for weekend camping or lightweight setups. Great when you don't need massive flow.
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BV158 (8 L/min): A sweet spot for caravans and small off-grid households needing reliable flow for showers and dishes.
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F10 (10 L/min): Extra headroom for higher flow needs or cooler source water, handy when you want less compromise on temperature.
Plain-English tech terms you'll see:
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L/min (litres per minute): Think of it like tap strength—how much water you're getting each minute.
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kPa (kilopascals): Water pressure—the "push" behind the water. Too low and the heater may not start; too high and fittings get stressed.
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Temperature rise: How much the heater warms the incoming water. Colder river water needs more "oomph" to hit shower-nice temps.
Knowing your model helps you choose the right maintenance rhythm, parts (like shower heads and filters), and accessories.
Hard Water in Australia: The Hidden Cost Driver
Australia is famous for its hard water in many regions—plenty of minerals like calcium and magnesium. Those minerals form scale, a chalky layer inside the heater's water path and heat exchanger. Scale narrows the "pipes" inside, like cholesterol in arteries, so you get weaker flow, unstable temperatures, and higher gas use. If your shower keeps going hot-cold-hot, scale is a prime suspect.
You'll save money by descaling regularly. Descaling dissolves those mineral deposits so heat transfers quickly again, reducing gas consumption and wear on internal parts.
In short: hard water = more scale = higher costs unless you descale.
Install & Ventilation: Get It Right Once
Even for portable setups, smart placement and ventilation save you from rework and damage:
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Ventilation: Use outdoors with good airflow and keep the unit clear of windows, doors and overhangs. Avoid semi-enclosed spaces where exhaust can drift back at you.
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Stress-free fittings: Don't twist or force the water or gas connectors. Gentle, straight runs reduce leaks and cracked fittings.
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Mounting: Secure on a stable surface or a proper stand. In caravans, ensure it's positioned to avoid heat or exhaust build-up and make hose routing tidy.
A careful first install avoids leaks, soot buildup, and heat damage that lead to premature part replacement.
In short: a tidy, well-ventilated install prevents expensive headaches.
Maintenance Checklist: Per Use | Monthly | Seasonal | Yearly
Per Use (or after a weekend trip):
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Check the inlet strainer and shower head for grit.
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Confirm a steady blue flame; flickering orange can indicate dust, soot, or poor gas mix.
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Glance over hoses and O-rings for nicks, kinks, or perishing.
Monthly (or every few outings):
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Clean the inlet strainer and soak the shower head to remove scale.
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Do a quick soapy-water leak test on gas joints (bubbles = leak).
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Check the regulator for physical damage and ensure the bottle is upright.
Seasonal (every 3–6 months, more often in hard-water areas):
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Run a descaling cycle (details below).
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Brush away dust; clear any insect screens or vents.
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Inspect the ignition batteries if your model uses them; swap if weak.
Yearly:
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Replace batteries and any tired seals/O-rings.
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Inspect hoses for UV cracking and replace if stiff or brittle.
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Give everything a more thorough clean and test.
In short: a small, regular routine stops small issues becoming big bills.
Descale & Rinse (Vinegar/Citric Acid) Step-by-Step
You can descale with common household products:
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Vinegar solution: roughly 1:1 white vinegar to water.
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Citric acid solution: follow pack guidance; it's usually stronger, so you may use less.
Closed-loop method (great for camps and off-grid):
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Fill a small bucket with your warm descaling solution.
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Use a camping water pump to feed the solution into the heater's cold-water inlet.
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Connect the hot-water outlet hose back into the same bucket, creating a loop.
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Run for 15–25 minutes, watching for scale flakes and cloudy fluid.
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Dump the solution responsibly; then loop with fresh water for 5–10 minutes to rinse until there's no vinegar/citric smell.
Tips:
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Don't leave acid in the unit.
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Avoid getting solution on decorative metal surfaces—wipe any splashes promptly.
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Descale more often if you notice flow dropping or temp swings.
In short: 20 minutes of descaling can save you months of frustration and extra gas.
Gas System Money-Savers
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Two-stage regulator: Helps keep pressure stable as the bottle empties or temps change. Stable pressure = efficient burn and fewer flame-outs.
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Quality hose & fittings: Cheap hoses perish faster; you end up replacing them and chasing leaks.
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Soapy-water leak test: Brush joints and watch for bubbles. No flames for testing, obviously.
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Bottle basics: Keep upright, store shaded and cool, and cap when not in use.
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No "dry firing": Never run the heater without water flow—like revving a dry engine.
In short: stable gas pressure and no leaks mean smoother burns and lower LPG spend.
Water Supply & Pump Tips for Camps/Off-Grid
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Low-pressure start: Choose a pump that meets your heater's start-up pressure so the unit lights reliably.
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Steady flow: Avoid constant stop-start (short-cycling); it's hard on components and your nerves. A small accumulator can help smooth pressure surges.
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Pre-filter: An inline filter or a simple settling bucket keeps grit out, saving your strainer and heat exchanger.
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Hose choices: Long, skinny hoses choke flow like a blocked artery. Use a suitable diameter and keep runs shorter where you can.
In short: clean, steady water = fewer clogs and a happier heater.
Seasonal Storage & Anti-Freeze Basics
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Drain and dry: Disconnect, open the hot side to let water escape, and give a gentle blow-through to clear residual water.
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Covers & bags: A winter cover or carry bag keeps dust, insects and UV off.
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Long breaks: Before storage, clean filters, check hoses, and cap ends to keep critters out.
In short: storing it clean and dry prevents corrosion and insect surprises next season.
Troubleshooting & When to Call a Licensed Gas Tech
Red flags to respect:
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Gas smell, backflame, repeated flame-outs, visible water/gas leaks.
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Soot marks around the burner area or flue outlet.
If you suspect a gas fault, don't muck around—contact a licensed gas fitter. DIY is brilliant for cleaning, descaling, and hose swaps, but gas fault-finding and repairs belong with the pros.
In short: DIY the cleaning; leave gas faults to licensed techs.
Recommended Camplux Accessories & Upgrades
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Inline inlet filter: Captures grit to protect the heat exchanger and shower head.
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Quick-connect sets: Make setup faster and reduce cross-threading and wear.
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Two-stage regulator: Smoother pressure equals fewer flame-outs and better efficiency.
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Winter cover/carry bag: Shields from dust, rain, UV, and insects.
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Replacement shower head: A clean, well-matched head keeps flow steady and heat transfer efficient.
Which for which?
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AY132: Inlet filter + quick-connects are big wins; consider an efficient shower head and a tidy carry bag.
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BV158: Filter + two-stage regulator for stable performance; quick-connects for frequent setups.
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F10: Filter is a must; regulator for steady pressure; cover if it lives outside.
In short: a small spend on filters/regulators pays you back in lower gas use and fewer clogs.
Cost Snapshot: No Maintenance vs Routine Maintenance
Picture two paths over a year:
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No maintenance: Scale builds, flow drops, you crank the flame higher, gas use climbs, and parts wear faster. Eventually you pay for replacement bits—or a service call mid-trip.
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Routine maintenance: A $20–$40 filter, vinegar and 20 minutes per season, plus a yearly hose/seal check. Gas use stays lean, showers stay consistent, and parts last longer.
In short: routine TLC beats replacement parts and wasted LPG.
Myths vs Facts
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Myth: "I only use it a few weekends—no need to descale."
Fact: A handful of hard-water weekends can lay down plenty of scale. -
Myth: "Max flame saves gas because it heats faster."
Fact: The sweet spot is clean internals + balanced flame + stable flow. Over-firing with scale present wastes gas. -
Myth: "Any shower head will do."
Fact: A mismatched head can restrict flow or mess with pressure, causing temp swings and short-cycling.
In short: the right setup plus light maintenance beats hacks every time.
Real-World Maintenance Schedules
Weekend Camper (AY132/BV158):
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After each trip: rinse hoses, check strainer and shower head.
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Every 2–3 trips: soapy-water leak test, quick descale if water was mineral-heavy.
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Seasonal: full descale, clean vents, fresh batteries.
Full-Time Caravan Traveller (BV158/F10):
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Weekly: strainer and shower head check.
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Monthly: descale cycle (more often in known hard-water spots).
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Quarterly: hose/regulator inspection; replace any tired seals.
Rural/Off-Grid Household (BV158/F10):
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Fortnightly: quick filter rinse, eyeball flame quality.
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Bi-monthly: descale, especially with bore or tank water.
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Yearly: hoses, seals, batteries, full system inspection.
In short: tailor the rhythm to how often—and where—you use the heater.
Quick Wrap-Up
Clean filters, stable gas pressure, and regular descaling keep your Camplux running sweet while keeping your LPG spend and repair bills low. Ready to kit out your setup? Consider a Camplux inline filter, two-stage regulator, quick-connects, and a winter cover to lock in those savings—so your showers stay hot and your parts last longer.
FAQ
How often should I descale in hard-water regions?
If you're drawing from mineral-rich sources (many Aussie regions are), aim for every 1–3 months with frequent use. For softer water or lighter use, 3–6 months is usually fine. If flow drops or temps swing, bring descaling forward.
What vinegar-to-water ratio works best?
A 1:1 mix of white vinegar and water is a practical, camp-friendly choice. If using citric acid, follow the packet directions—often you'll need less because it's stronger.
Why does my flame keep going out?
Common causes include low water flow (heater won't stay triggered), unstable gas pressure (consider a two-stage regulator), wind gusts in the burner area, or blocked filters. Check strainer/shower head, confirm bottle is upright and not freezing cold, and do a soapy-water leak test on joints.
How do I check for gas leaks safely?
Mix a little dish soap with water, brush it over connections and the regulator, and look for bubbles. If you see any, shut the gas off and fix the issue before using the heater. Don't use flames for testing—ever.
Can AY132 run on a low-pressure pump?
Yes—just ensure the pump meets the heater's start-up pressure and can deliver a steady flow. An accumulator can help smooth out on/off pulsing from some compact pumps.
Which accessories cut maintenance the most on BV158/F10?
An inline inlet filter (keeps grit out), a two-stage regulator (stable pressure), and quick-connects (reduce fitting wear) deliver the biggest wins. Add a cover if the unit lives outdoors.
