G'day! If you love camping weekends, live the caravan life, run an off-grid setup, or call a remote property home, hot water is one creature comfort that shouldn't chew through your gas bottle. This guide shows you, in plain English, how to squeeze the most warmth from every gram of LPG—using Camplux gear as the go-to example—so your showers stay toasty and your running costs stay low. Brew a cuppa and let's get you sorted.
Why Energy Efficiency Matters on the Road and Off-Grid
When you're miles from town, efficiency isn't just a nice-to-have—it's peace of mind. Better efficiency means each gas bottle lasts longer, so you're not cutting a trip short to find a refill. It also means faster, steadier hot water with less fiddling, which is brilliant when the southerly's blowing and you just want a quick rinse. You'll reduce emissions too, and while you're not trying to save the whole planet from your campsite, it's a tidy bonus. Finally, your setup has to cope with uniquely Aussie conditions—windy coasts, big day-night temperature swings inland, and hard bore water in parts of the bush. Efficient habits and the right kit make all the difference.
The Jargon, Demystified (30-Second Read)
Here's the tech in terms you can picture:
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MJ/h (or BTU) = heat output. Think of it like engine size. More MJ/h can heat water faster, especially when the incoming water is cold.
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L/min = flow rate. That's how much water comes through per minute—the "tap opening." Higher L/min feels stronger but needs more heat to reach the same temperature.
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ΔT (delta-T) = temperature rise. If your creek water is 15 °C and you want a 40 °C shower, ΔT is 25 °C. Colder inlets need more oomph or less flow.
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Minimum flow to ignite. Below a certain trickle, the burner won't fire—like pressing the throttle but the engine won't wake without enough fuel and air.
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PSI (pump pressure). Common 12 V pumps run roughly 20–40 PSI; steady pressure helps the heater ignite and hold temperature.
Cheat sheet: Bigger MJ/h = faster heating; bigger L/min = more water used; bigger ΔT = harder job; stable PSI = stable hot water.
How a Portable Gas Water Heater Works (Plain English)
Cold water moves through a copper heat exchanger while a burner lights underneath, warming the water as it passes by. Your knobs are like a "throttle" (gas rate) and a "tap" (flow rate). Cranking the gas while also blasting full flow is like driving uphill in top gear—inefficient. Instead, set a comfortable temperature target and use only as much flow as you need. Pro tip: going slightly cooler (say 37–40 °C) and controlling flow is way more efficient than running scalding hot water and then mixing in heaps of cold at the shower head.
Sizing and Matching to Your Use
Start with your real-world scenario:
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Solo weekend camper? Lower flow is fine; pack light and keep it simple.
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Family camp or farm wash-downs? You'll want a bit more flow and a higher heat output for back-to-back showers.
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Cold winters or alpine trips? Either choose a unit with higher MJ/h or plan to shower with a slightly lower flow to hit ΔT.
Camplux makes this easy:
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Camplux BV158 (~8 L/min): A brilliant all-rounder for caravans and family camps—enough flow for a comfortable shower without guzzling gas.
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Camplux F10 (~10 L/min): Great when multiple people queue up after a surf or dusty day. The higher flow helps with quick changeovers.
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Camplux Nano 3 Pro: Light, compact, and perfect for quick trips when pack-space and setup time matter.
Always confirm your exact specs and safe installation details in the product manual.
Ten Fast Tips That Save Gas (You'll Feel These Straight Away)
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Aim for "just-comfy." Set your target water temp around 37–40 °C instead of blasting it hot and mixing with cold.
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Use a low-flow shower head (about 6–8 L/min). It still feels nice, but the heater has less water to warm each minute.
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Short, straight hoses. Long, coiled hoses lose heat; insulating a section can help in cooler weather.
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Wind management. Side winds can disturb the flame. Shield the area from cross-breezes while keeping the unit in a fully ventilated, outdoor-safe spot.
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Water off before gas off. This helps avoid a cold "tail" and needless re-ignitions that waste battery and gas.
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Clean the inlet strainer. A clogged strainer chokes flow, causes ignition hiccups, and forces you to run hotter than needed.
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Descale regularly in hard-water areas. A little vinegar-based flush restores heat-transfer efficiency.
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Fresh batteries, steady ignition. Weak batteries mean unreliable sparks, cycling, and wasted fuel.
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Right cylinder + regulator. Steady pressure makes steady temps—no one wants a shower that yo-yos.
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Mark your sweet spot. Once you dial in "that" combo of gas and flow, note the knob positions—next time is "set-and-forget."
Pumps and Water Supply: Get the Flow Right
In caravans and off-grid sheds, you'll often run a 12 V diaphragm pump. Many sit nicely in the 20–40 PSI range and deliver a stable flow the heater can "see." Add a pre-filter if your water is sandy or from a tank; it protects the heater and keeps your strainer from clogging. Use on-demand pressure switches so the pump runs only when you open the tap—quiet, efficient, and your battery will thank you.
Seasonal and Environmental Tweaks for Australia
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Winter & high country: Colder inlet water demands more from your heater. Either slow the flow a touch or nudge the heat output up to maintain your preferred temperature rise.
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Coastal winds: Windbreaks help, but never block ventilation. Position the unit so the exhaust isn't knocked around by side gusts.
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Dusty inland: Keep vents clear and clean the inlet strainer more often.
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Anti-freeze & storage: In frosty spots, drain the unit after use. Frozen water can split a heat exchanger faster than you can say "no dramas."
Maintenance: The Long-Game of Efficiency
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Monthly: Quick once-over for leaks, cracked hoses, and a look at the inlet strainer.
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Seasonal: Descale if you've been using mineral-rich water, and give the burner area a gentle clean per the manual.
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Yearly: Inspect igniters, seals, and gas connections; replace tired gaskets and O-rings.
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Accessories: Camplux pump kits, filters, and shower tents are tuned for the heaters and keep things tidy, safe, and efficient.
Safety and Compliance (Short and Friendly)
These units are for outdoor, well-ventilated use. Follow the manual's clearances from windows, doors, and combustibles. Check for leaks with soapy water, never with a flame. Use the correct regulator and hose, and stick with certified gear. If you're unsure about a gas connection, get a licensed tradie to eyeball it—cheap insurance for peace of mind.
Common Mistakes and Quick Fixes
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"Hotter must be better." Not really. It burns more gas and often ends up mixed down with cold anyway.
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"Max flow, always." Big flow can sink your temperature rise, causing lukewarm showers and ignition stumbles.
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Random cut-outs or yo-yo temps? Check batteries first, then the inlet strainer, then wind exposure, then dial back the flow a smidge.
A Simple Way to Estimate Running Cost
You can ballpark gas use with a back-of-the-envelope approach:
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Minutes per day of hot water use (e.g., two 5-minute showers = 10 min).
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Flow rate (L/min) at your preferred shower feel (say 7 L/min).
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Temperature rise (ΔT). Colder inlet increases energy required.
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Look up your heater's MJ/h and see roughly how hard it's working at your chosen flow and temperature.
Even without perfect math, you'll see the pattern: trimming 1–2 L/min off flow or dropping target temp by a few degrees can stretch a bottle a surprising amount. The proof is in the "how long till I swap cylinders" reality check you'll notice after a week on the road.
Recommended Camplux Set-ups (AU-Oriented)
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BV158 Efficiency Kit: Pair the BV158 with a 12 V pump, a pre-filter, and a low-flow shower head around 6–8 L/min. You get steady, comfy showers without wasting gas, ideal for caravans and family camps.
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F10 Family Camp Kit: If you're running back-to-back showers or rinsing boards and gear, the higher flow of the F10 makes changeovers quick while staying reliable.
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Nano 3 Pro Lite Kit: For quick weekenders or minimalist setups, it's light to carry, easy to hang, and quick to pack down.
If you're unsure which to pick, think about your coldest trip of the year and size to that; in summer you can always dial back the gas or bump up the flow.
Pocket Glossary (Keep on Your Phone)
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MJ/h: Heat output (think engine size).
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BTU: Another heat unit, common in North America.
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L/min: Litres per minute—how "big" your shower feels.
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ΔT: Temperature rise needed from inlet to target.
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Minimum flow: The trickle needed for ignition.
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PSI: Pump pressure—steady PSI equals steady heat.
Closing
Efficiency is a balancing act between heat, flow, and the conditions you're in. With a smart setup and a few habits, your Camplux can deliver comfortable showers while your LPG lasts longer—too easy.
